Out of Africa. Again.

You've got to be kidding, right?  Leaving Zambia?

Many of you have wondered why on earth we keep moving around the earth so much.  The reality is for the first 4+ years of working overseas our destinies seemed to be determined by other forces:  a worldwide recession forcing projects to shut down, companies leaving countries due to unrest, and new divisions not moving forward as planned.  These experiences have made us wiser and better able to make decisions pro-actively instead of waiting to see what happens, and we have grown accustomed to change.  And while I would rather have a root canal than move again, this next one is pretty exciting.

Thirty-five years ago I booked a trip to Australia and cancelled it when Roger proposed, and we promised each other we would get there some day.  Well, that some day has come.  Roger was offered a challenging position in Australia with great people he has worked with in the past, and we are both thrilled.

But there is still the matter of goodbyes to deal with in Zambia.

We came expecting to stay, and were warmly welcomed by a fun-loving group of people who call Ndola home. I was also privileged to be involved with the Ndola Lions School for the Visually Impaired thanks to my dear friend, Yvonne. I found a cause that touched my heart and inspired me, and gave me a sense of purpose - something that is hard to do when you're on the move.

As we saw our time come to a close, I started taking pictures of people and places I didn't want to ever forget.

I learned the most about living in Zambia from our maid, Rabecca, who is a kind and loyal person.

Left to right:  Our maid, Rabecca, Dorothy and Violet eat lunch together everyday and I enjoy hearing them chat and laugh in Bemba.  Rabecca said she often brags to the other maids that "her madame" makes her own bed and washes the dishes!  

This gentlemen works just outside the gate to our townhouse complex.  He has fixed our shoes and a backpack, sold  fruit, and tried valiantly to teach me Bemba.  While I never mastered the language, he would smile when I responded to his greeting with, "Bwino" (which means I am fine).  I gave him 2 prints of the photo, and he was clearly proud that I took a picture of him and his business.

Women selling fruit to buses and trucks on their way north on the highway from Lusaka.

The outdoor market is the best place to buy vegetables..... and dried worms (I can testify to the tasty vegs but not the worms)

Lots of different types of mushrooms

While Yvonne and I were at the school one day, we saw some neighbourhood kids playing on the grounds.

This little guy didn't know what to make out of me -- talk about the eyes being the window to the soul.

These two boys were having a great time playing football but took time to talk to me  in-between shots.

Check out a few things in this picture: the boys are playing barefoot, the ball is wrapped in rags, and the goal posts are pretty rudimentary but definitely filled the need.

These boys from the school were playing soccer with a pop bottle filled with rocks so they could hear where it went.  It is hard to fathom that most see only shadows or things within inches of their faces, while others are totally blind.  Yet they run and play like our own kids used to do.

 A donor sent money for the students to have a nice Christmas dinner. Unfortunately most of the kids were sent home because there was no food for them.  With the brisk sales of CDs and many of our family and friends generous donations, the food crisis has stabilized and the children returned.  So, a belated dinner was held with Yvonne and I purchasing the food.

For $110 we purchased 15 chickens, cabbage, onions, tomatoes, orange drink, maize meal and candies for more than 100 people.

As always, students helped each other and it was amazing how well mannered the 100+ children were.  When Mr. Chisala spoke in his customary soft spoken voice, you could hear a pin drop.  He asked the children to thank the donors and volunteers for their support, and to remember them in their prayers.

The cook (on the right) dishes out the plates of food, and the 3 older students with some vision delivers the meals to the children waiting in the dining hall.  100 plates were delivered within 5 minutes.

 It is customary in most African countries to eat with your hands.  Having roast chicken is a real treat for the kids and they really enjoyed the meal.  The white food you see is called Nshima, which is a Zambian staple but something we never acquired a taste for.

Because there were guests in the dining hall, the older boys you see in the background are quietly walking around saying, "Order".  Mr. Chisala assured us dinner time is usually more animated, but it was very impressive to see such a large number of children ranging in age from 6 - 20 be so well mannered.

I met with two of the students so I could put their profiles on the school's blog. Despite their sight disabilities, Naomi and Jumbe have aspirations of college and careers.  They are both excellent students, very articulate and a joy to talk to.

Naomi is in Grade 9 and has dreams of becoming a journalist.  She's been at the school for 3 years.

Jumbe is also in Grade 9 and wants to become a criminal lawyer when he graduates. His favorite past time?  Studying.   He has been a student here since he was in grade 2 when he began losing his sight.  When I asked him if he ever falls because he can only see shadows, he just laughed and assured me he hasn't yet.  He laughed harder when I told him I was having a difficult time navigating the uneven pathways and steps!

Telling the headmaster, Mr. Chisala, that I was leaving was difficult because the time spent at the school with Yvonne was a real highlight for me during the last 6 months. I have the utmost respect for Mr. Chisala and how he manages the school and cares for the students.  The fact he does all this without the aid of sight is remarkable.

Before leaving the school on Friday, Mr. Chisala read me a letter typed in Braille thanking me for my support.  I was moved by his words and will cherish the Braille, and typewritten letters.

We had a final night out with friends to thank them for the many kindnesses they had shown us.
Clockwise from bottom left:  me, Tim Currin, Roger, Steele and Sally Stavros, Yvonne Currin

In every country we've lived in, we've been fortunate to meet wonderful people who have helped show us the way.  Because of their generosity of spirit, our lives have been enriched by learning, listening and sharing some laughs with people from all walks of life.

So, we are headed off on yet another adventure.  I'm giddy at the thought of experiencing being an expat in a first world country with the ability to drink water from a tap, buy goods most people normally take for granted, and speak the same language -- well, with some Aussie slang thrown in.

Once again I am reminded of Dr. Seuss' quote:
"Don't cry because it's over, smile because it happened."

Tukamonana!  We will see each other!

The good, the bad, and the sad

I was reminded this week that Kinley Travels hadn't been updated since Thailand.  First of all, thanks to everyone who keeps track of us on the blog, through Facebook, calls on Skype and chatty emails.  It makes the world seem that much smaller and we treasure our friendships with you.

So, here is the latest of the good...the bad...and the sad.

The Good

Thanks to the generosity of many of our friends and family who bought CDs and made donations to the Ndola Lions School for the Visually Impaired, the kitchen larder is stocked, and the children returned to a school that could provide food for them.  I can't thank you all enough and it really touched the school's headmaster, Mr. Chisala.

Another project that has been a long time in the making is providing the students with new bunk beds and mattresses.  Up until a donor from the UK stepped up to help, many of the students slept on the floor on foam mattresses that well....most of you would shudder at the thought of using.

The boys told us how happy they were to return from Christmas vacation and be assigned a bunk bed.

One of the boys' dorms

My cohort in crime, Yvonne, (who has been the driving force in the school's fundraising for the last 7 years) and I noticed that many more younger children had enrolled in the new year.

These two young boys were exploring the pathways with their arms wrapped around each other .  The wide eyed boy had eyes that could barely see, and the other had no sight.  But together, they greeted us and happily posed for pictures they would never be able to see.

This class was learning geography.  I told them that in my country, a big snowstorm was blowing with the temperatures around -20C.  I told them it would feel like walking into a big freezer with the wind blowing.  They laughed at the thought.

I asked the kids if I could take their picture; they all smiled and said yes but when I got home, noticed the young girl in the 2nd seat by the window that covered her face.  Many Africans fear a camera will take their spirit and it's not unusual to see reactions such as this. 

Children with albinism are common at the school. 

Here, Yvonne (left) and her sister Ros, (visiting from the U.K.) and I check out a playground at a nearby church to use as a prototype.  

With the increased numbers of young children attending the school, and the food crisis under control, Yvonne and I have focused our fundraising on having a jungle gym playground built.  A local lumber yard has assured us we can build it in components as funds are raised, and that he will give us a good price on materials.  A mutual friend has offered the services of two carpenters to build -- so the dream that Yvonne has had for years, is getting close to reality. These kids have so little, and a jungle gym will help them physically, mentally and emotionally.  Yvonne is a trained mobility instructor for the blind, so her expertise will be important as the kids are oriented to the equipment. 

I'll update the school's blog with more pictures when the playground is finished.  

We've been warmly welcomed into a great group of friends.  On Sunday, we were guests at Kevin and Glenys Shone's home for brunch.  

My dear friend, Yvonne.  She took me under her wing, introduced me to the school, and has been company for me over many cappuccinos  

Kevin keeping an eye on an uninvited guest

The last time I was at their home, thousands of fruit bats had set up homes in their trees for a few months before moving on in their migratory journey.

Left to right:  Barb, Viv, Glenys, Yvonne and Roger

Yvonne took me to the local watch repair man who is set up on a sidewalk in town

On a recent Sunday, Roger and I went to Nsobe Game Camp for lunch and saw this monkey checking us out

The Bad...and The Sad....

Zambia was thrust into a period of shock and mourning this week when a horrific bus crash claimed the lives of 53 people; 39 of them from Ndola.  If reports are true, the driver survived the crash, and may only face a fine for causing the deaths of so many.

We've always said that driving is the biggest risk we face (terrorist attacks are not even on our top 10 list of worries) and Zambia is no exception.  The roads are narrow, in poor condition, drivers speed, and overtaking vehicles is commonplace because there are no passing lanes and no dual carriageways heading to the capital of Lusaka.    

Everyone I've talked to knew of someone that died on Friday.  A young woman who lived two doors from us perished, leaving her children to be raised by her parents.  The financial and emotional toll of this accident is beyond comprehension.  Sounds of wailing have echoed through Ndola as grief takes a hold.  

While death is more common in Zambia than in other countries we have lived, I have no doubt in my mind it is felt as deeply as anywhere else.

"Grief is the price we pay for love."
                                                           Queen Elizabeth II

Reality Check

I've called living in Ndola, Zambia as "Africa Lite".  I can buy most things (although my expectations are pretty basic), I feel safe, and we've been warmly welcomed.

Then I get reality checks.  Two of Roger's employees have had children die in the last few weeks and while very sad, it is not usual; over 100 students from the Lions School for the Visually Impaired had to be sent home early for Christmas because there wasn't enough food to feed them; and I feel like I'm living in the polar opposite of the movie, "The Help".  Let me explain.

Picture walking down a street and rarely seeing old people.  That's because the average age of Zambians is 48 years.  On children's clinic cards there is a section where the tally of the number of dead or alive siblings and parents are recorded as matter of factly as writing a phone number down.  I rarely talk to people without hearing of several family members that have passed on at early ages.

Then there is the school that I have become very committed to.  When I met my friend Yvonne at a braii when we first arrived, she told me she helped raise funds for the Ndola Lions School for the Visually Impaired.  I said, "Oh my God, I couldn't do that - I hate asking people for money."  She replied, "When you see the children, it's not hard at all."  And she's right.

The school has so little (try to picture if your child was blind, living far from home, sleeping on the floor, getting 2 eggs per week if they're lucky, eating a limited diet of rice, beans and maize, with little access to Braille equipment) but yet they are working hard to become more self sustainable.  The children not only go to school, they work in the fields where maize, vegetables and bananas are grown (when there is money to buy seeds and the weather cooperates), as well as tending to the chickens and pigs that are used as a source of money when sold.

All the profits will go to feed the students

The school also has a choir who just recorded their first CD called, "Empowerment".  Yvonne and I put up the seed money to get the CDs made since obviously there wasn't enough money to buy food let alone get the CDs produced and we've been thrilled that sales have been brisk through word of mouth.  The choir was all set to sing at a shopping mall a couple of weeks ago, but when Yvonne and I arrived, a bank had set up a promotion blaring loud music right where the kids were to sing.  The woman in charge refused to budge and I found myself raising my voice saying "your actions will be keeping food from these blind children! How can you live with yourself!"  I honestly thought I could hit her.  Fortunately the mall manager arrived and sent the bank people on their way before I really got mad!

I've made a blog for the school in the hopes of informing people of the school and to shamelessly try and raise money.  Please check out www.nlsfvi.blogspot.com and feel free to forward the link to any groups or people that could help.  You can also find out how to buy the CD!  Yvonne's right - it is easy once you know these children.

We've lived in our little townhouse for 3 months now, and while it's quite fabulous having a spotlessly clean house and ironed everything -- having a full time maid has it's drawbacks.  Rabecca is about my age and is loyal, kind and a great worker but she was driving me a little crazy.

"May I pass, Madam?" she would say as she entered a room. "May I use the kitchen, Madam?" she would ask when it was time for her to make her lunch. "May I wash the windows, Madam?" she would ask along with other requests to clean.  If we met in the hall, she would hang back until I went by her and say, "Sorry, Madam", as if occupying the same space is something she should apologize for. If Roger came home, she looked absolutely frightened and would retreat to the ironing room or outside. If a friend came to the house, she would become invisible.

Our maid, Rabecca is on the right.  Violet (on the left)  is the maid next door and the two are good friends.

I finally had to talk to her to see what was really going on.  Turns out she, and other maids have been reprimanded and/or fired for walking into a room without permission (in particular if the husband was there), speaking when not spoken to, using the front door, touching a white woman as they passed in a hall, and cleaning or not cleaning what the Madam wanted.  Poor woman must have been a bundle of nerves.  She said she knows we are different than others, but she didn't want to take the chance.  We got things sorted out and we both feel much more comfortable around each other, although admittedly, I'm happy to have the house to myself when she leaves for the day or on the weekends.

We cringe when we hear people talk rudely to "the help"... heck, I still stumble over calling Rabecca our maid.  Roger's staff are also taken aback by his open door policy and have gradually become more comfortable when talking to him on a 1:1 basis. Small steps.

Africa is such a complex country, and I often wonder, "what year is it anyway?"

"Racism isn't born, folks, it's taught.  I have a two year old son. You know what he hates? Naps.  End of list."         Dennis Leary

Nature...from creepy to graceful.

Things have gotten batty around Ndola.  The annual fruit bat migration began about 2 weeks ago, and upwards of 8 million bats are making their way from the Congo to Kasanka National Park in Zambia.  Fruit trees are now in season - so for these huge fruit bats (with wingspans up to 3 feet across) it's like tucking into a Thanksgiving dinner.  And like unwelcome guests - they over stay their welcome.

My friend Yvonne, who has been my tour guide, brought me to a friend's house to show how her trees have been taken over by these creepily interesting flying rodents.

When I first saw the trees, I thought they had large nests hanging from them.  Turns out they are thousands of bats hanging upside down.

The bats take off every night at 6:15 p.m. and return around 3 a.m.   They make a racket and the sky is blackened when they all take off.  Their wings are translucent and when the moon is full and they are flying you can see right through them.

Since arriving in Ndola, we've been told we should visit Nsobe Game Camp just south of us.  I told Roger he needed to take a day off, so we went to check it out.

The camp has a variety of accommodations including chalets and tents.  These tents are raised on wooden platforms with a full bathroom.  Price is about $80 per person a night with dinner and full breakfast.

We followed the rules

Having another "pinch myself" day realizing I'm living in Zambia!

The game camp also raises cattle, fish, chickens, etc for the restaurant and a shop on the property. Next time we'll bring a cooler with us and stock up on meat as it was absolutely delicious

After lunch, we went on a game drive with a guide.  The camp covers 1500 hectares with 15 types of antelopes, zebras, giraffes, monkeys, and a multitude of birds.  We saw them all.

Water buck

Huge termite mound

The butt ends of zebras

We saw 5 giraffes - one of my favorite African animals, but this was the only one that was easily seen. 

Not sure what kind of tree this was, but the roots climbed the outside of the trunk

Fish farming is done here as well

We will definitely return to Nsobe Game Camp for a weekend.  What better place to eat great food, relax by the water in a lovely tent..and maybe see a giraffe wander by.

In all things of nature there is something of the marvelous.

                                   Aristotle

Life in Ndola

The realization hit last week...I'm older than Zambia!  The country (which was known as Northern Rhodesia in the dark ages when I was in school) gained independence in 1964.  We were invited to a fireworks display and honestly, we didn't expect anything but an enjoyable night out.  It was enjoyable - but so much more.

Armed with lawn chairs, beverages and an appetite, we arrived at a sports field along with 3,000 other people.  The event is supported by the Hindu community and several food stalls with fabulous Indian food drew us like a magnet.  Overhead, the annual bat migration was evident as huge fruit bats blackened the sky for an hour at sunset.

When the fireworks started, we expected it would last 15 minutes.  And it kept going.  Surely at 30 minutes it would stop.  And it kept going.  The skies were lit up in a rapid fire succession of fireworks and it was a spectacular display.  The total elapsed time was 50 minutes --- certainly giving any fireworks displays in the U.S. and Canada a run for their money.

I returned to the Ndola Lions School for the Blind to talk to the Headmaster, George Chisala, about the school.  Two groups in the U.S. are considering donations to the school and I needed to get additional photos and understand more about the school to pass along.  It saddened me to hear that students are blinded by illnesses such as measles (as was the headmaster, Mr. Chisala who contracted measles at the age of 8) and glaucoma that would be prevented or treated in other countries.

The kids go to classes in the morning, and in the afternoon they participate in sports, in the choral group or help in the fields or barnyard where pigs and chickens are raised.  As before, I was totally blown away by the confident way they walk in a dark world and of their abilities and strength that humble me.

The banana grove 

Layers and broilers are being raised.  As money becomes available, they'll increase the number of chickens to enable more to be used as food for the students.  Currently they get 2 eggs per week from the layers.

Headmaster, George Chisala is an inspiration to all.  He has overcome many challenges to become a teacher, and then Headmaster.  He initiated many of these projects in an effort for the school to be more self-sustainable.  As we were walking around the property amidst many obstacles, he just laughed when I asked him if he ever fell.  Good grief -- I have challenges staying vertical and I'm sighted!

The pigs are the latest addition to the school's agricultural program.  Currently 2 pigs live in this cement hut but plans are to have a larger area where they can get some fresh air and have mud to roll around in.
Surely happy pigs will be healthier!

Vegetable garden with maize field in the background.  Water is scarce which affects the vegetables, but when the rains come in the next few weeks, they will be able to plant maize and use it for the school's food.

The choral group was practicing when I visited. They are getting to know me, and I explained what I was doing and asked if it would be o.k. if I took some video and photos of them. They were happy to have their pictures taken and I wondered, how many have seen what they look like?  These are the students who recently recorded a CD and I'm hoping the sale of it will help boost the school's coffers. I felt like a voyeur taking their pictures knowing they couldn't see me do it.

Here is a clip of the students singing.

We finally got some decorating done in the house.

I hung 3 table runners on a metal rod to make a wall hanging.  I haven't been watching HGTV for years for nothing!

This reminds me of the aliens from Roswell....

We love warthogs...I call this grouping "Our family".

Shame on me for not being able to pronounce this lady's name, so I call her the "vegetable lady" because she comes each day and for 20 cents, sells our maid a bag of greens or other vegs.  I noticed she was pregnant and the day I took this photo, she was actually due.  It will be her 11th pregnancy but 6 children have already died.  She will deliver the baby in her hut with her husband's help; she is 41.

Our maid Rabecca is a lovely woman who keeps our place spotless.  Bed linens and towels are changed with the regularity of a hotel and  ironed along with everything else (Roger swears his underwear is as well).   As I keep telling Roger, "don't get too used to this"!  She's raised 4 children and they are all successful and doing well.  Her first marriage ended badly and she lived with 2 of her younger children in a room that she rented.  She is now happily married.  Each day she and the maid next door, Violet, share lunch  and I love to hear them laugh.

Violet and Rabecca
Is it just me, or does Violet look like Oprah Winfrey's character, Sophia, in The Color Purple?

Roger is still spending more time working than anything else (and I've been unofficially recruited to sort some things out at the office) but we're excited about planning our Christmas holiday in Thailand.  We're going to Koh Samui to hang out on a beach for a week then meet up with Brad and Anette for a week exploring Bangkok and the area around Chiang Mai.  So grateful Brad and Anette have the same spirit of adventure we have, and that the four of us have fun together.  We're planning on taking a Thai cooking class which we're all looking forward to.  It will be one more place we can check off our bucket list. After all - there are countries younger than me.

"If you have a good husband, you can live outside and not feel the rain."

Rabecca, our very wise maid